The Good, The Bad & The Ugly

Listening to: United States of Whatever by Liam Lynch

The Good

Niagara River, Niagara Falls NY

Leaving Niagara Falls I went North to see some more of the Niagara River and Lake Ontario. As I alluded to in me last post, the falls aren’t as impressive as their reputation precedes, but the Niagara River is immense; especially as you head north to see the gorge and the whirlpool. As long as you can resist the charms of ‘The Silo’ in Lewiston (as featured on Man vs. Food, and very proud of that they are too) you reach Fort Niagara where the Niagara River feeds into Lake Ontario. New one for the wildlife list though – a swimming snake that’d caught a fish.

Following along Lake Ontario, the region is all wine country. Obviously though cycling and wine aren’t the best combination (as learnt through experimentation) so no wine tasting was done. The lake though is pretty huge. On the horizon I could just about see the skyscrapers of Toronto, but they were too far to show up on the photo.

Eventually I made it to the Finger Lakes. Had a stunning 65 mile ride to get to Geneva on Seneca Lake in glorious sunshine. Made my way down to the lake shore and there was some live music going on. I also tackled perhaps my toughest challenge on the ride over – this icecream…

A small icecream

This icecream was about the size of me head (alright, maybe half the size of me head, but still, huge!) and this was a small size. There was only going to be one winner here – the icecream; I was covered in it. For the more hirsute ladies, an icecream this size, this unbalanced, and this melted will just make your beard all sticky. Me face upto me eyes was green, icecream was dripping off me elbow – anyone who’s ever seen a toddler in summer will know the look. There is a way to tackle a beast like this and that’s to not make the same mistake as me – don’t get anything with chunks. No chocolate chips, no nuts, no toffee pieces. You just can’t chew quickly enough to keep the icecream under control.

Vineyard on Seneca Lake shore, NY

But, once at Seneca Lake, what a place. Another beautiful place and cycling down the side of the lake is more wine country. Obviously though cycling and wine aren’t the best combination (as learnt through experimentation) but how often do you go cycling through the wine regions of New York? The region is particularly known for its Rieslings and the ones I had were just incredible. For those that haven’t been to a winery, you pay a couple of dollars to taste 5 or 6 wines and then you flirt and show enough interest to get a taste of the more exclusive wines that you’re supposed to pay extra for, and for a taste of the wines that shouldn’t even be open.

In Watkins Glen there is a gorge. To make a comparison, Niagara Falls was pretty impressive, but the gorge was just incredible. Not expected at all, but an amazing sight.

Watkins Glen NY

The Bad

Other than the weather, which has been a little ropey recently, I’ve stayed in a couple of really crappy motels. Internet access has been intermittent. I’ve been sitting with me netbook hanging out the window attempting to steal wifi from a car dealership on the other side of the road, and other times there’s been nothing. To make things more painful, although I’ve paid off me credit card it hadn’t been processed so I’ve been running fairly close to me credit limit.

In Watkins Glen as I pulled into a motel THUWNK! That sound again. And at half 4 on a Saturday with no bike shops in town this was going to be a tricky one to sort out. Nearest bike shop open on a Sunday is 25 miles away on the edge of the Cornell University campus, so looks like I’ll be taking a trip over there and hopefully I won’t have to walk the whole way.

Ghost Bike, Bloomfield NY

On occasion you are reminded of the nature of what you’re doing and of your mortality. Cycling past another ghost bike reminds you that you’re only one Dodge Ram away from being killed. Although on these roads I’m more likely to get hit by a Cobra or a Ford GT40 – those spending the day drinking on winery tours are rich. Although I’m probably in more danger of myself. The most observant will have seen the injury count go up as I managed to cut the back of me leg on me gears. Nothing serious at least.

The Ugly

Turns out that another friend has attempted suicide again.

Vermont To New York

I seem to be fairly negligent as of late in writing about a place when I'm actually there. This time, I've been to State capital number 11 - Albany NY - and already moved on.

Cycling through a cloud at the start of 6 miles of downhill

In the last post I was in a bed and breakfast in Pittsfield VT and from there I continued me 170 mile journey across a mountain range or two to get from Montpelier to Albany in just 3 days. From the BnB things started fairly rough with a 10 mile uphill ride from 900 feet to 2100 feet. I was cycling through a cloud by the end of it, but what goes up must come down and that 6 miles of downhill was pretty epic.

A chance to stay in Manchester couldn't be overlooked, although the Manchester in Vermont is just a little different to the Manchester back home - few more mountains, and a little more forest. I did overhear a brilliant half a conversation whilst I was having breakfast though...

The officer said that it is allowed here, just as long as you don't touch yourself.

All clear then - when in Vermont, as long as you're touching someone else, it's all good.

Empire State Plaza, Albany NY

In Albany I had a well deserved rest-day. It's not too bad a city. There is one street with some fun to be had and a couple of decent sights to be seen. But, despite going to an 'English Pub', I'm yet to be served a warm beer and a menu with Doner Kebab with options such as chicken curry as a filling and no mention of doner is a travesty. There was also a choice to be made: either nail it down to Harrisburg to keep the capital counter up, or add an extra 300 miles or so and head west to Niagara Falls before going south to Harrisburg. The people of Facebook chose, and chose well. Found a bike path that heads west, and when I got onto the path there was a sign saying that it goes all the 349 miles to Buffalo (or close enough).

So tonight I'm in the village of Fultonville. Across the river is the village of Fonda. There's very little here other than a speedway so all I can hear at the minute is the sound of far too many V8 engines on a way too small oval track.

Birthday Boy!

Before I forget, couple of things to finish off. First of all, as it's crept over to the 27th with the time difference, I can say happy birthday to my big brother! 28 again with his first year of experience!


Last thing, over here is a holiday weekend. On Monday is Memorial Day - a day to remember those fallen on behalf of the US armed forces. I'd like to remind everyone of another group of people who have lost their lives...

Ghost Bike, NY